Broken Again

 and on Thanks Giving…

This is a terrible topic for a blog, but, when you can no longer use photos… such is life.

I am Jim McCabe, aircraft mechanic by trade, general mechanic by
gifting. But, I must admit, I’m not all that great of a mechanic. I
always seem to get moved into management of the maintenance programs. I
get to supervise good mechanics who normally do a great job. God has
blessed me by letting me use my gifting for Him. Its been a blast. Here
in Chad, I don’t have a mechanic to supervise, I’m it, kind of scary for
me. I don’t know much about diesels. I don’t have any manuals, except
the operators. I placed an order yesterday to get the maintenance and
parts manuals coming. But, it’ll be months before they get here.

The generator specifics are:
     Model               D125P1
     s/n                     D4293E/001
     Date made      1998
     Rated power   156.3 kva
                               125 kw
     Rated voltage   480 / 277
     Phase                3
     Frequency         60hz, but we are using it for 50 hz
     Rated current    188 A
     Rated RPM       1800 , but we are using it at 1500 to get the 50 hz.

     Diesel engine info:
     Perkins England
     1869 /1800
     YD50517    *U702937D*

The CAT / Olympian / Perkins problem. The “run, off, auto” switch, next
to the emergency stop switch, has vibrated itself into a state of
intermittent operation. At least that is the assumption based on the
symptom I am seeing. We do not use the auto start function as we do not
have an auto transfer switch. (another problem for another day) When I
come out to start the generator,  I turn the run, off, auto switch to
run and 50% of the time, it starts right up. 50% of the time the motor
turns and about one half rotation and stops, sort of like a low battery,
but its not. So, switch off, then back to on, a half rotation, switch
off, then to on and eventually after 3 / 6 / 9 attempts it starts.
Here’s the tricky part, if right after it starts the volt meter doesn’t
come up to close to 12v, then that is a sign its going to auto shut down
in about 60 – 90 seconds. So now I have learned to tap / wiggle, the
run, off, auto switch until the volt meter reads 12 volts. Then I don’t
normally get an auto shut down. The knob on the outside is fine, the
plastic switch body on the inside of the panel is somewhat loose. Not
like its going to fall apart loose, but loose enough there seems to be
opportunity for inadvertent internal contact movement , thus shutdown.
Its appearance is transparent plastic. Four rectangular sort of cubes
that snap together, then snap to the knob that is attached to the panel.
There are sixteen electrical contact possibilities for wire terminals to
plug into around the body of the switch / cube.

Before I had ever given this switch a thought, I had someone who claimed
to be a CAT mechanic come and all on his own he went directly to this
switch and using string he wrapped the cube and glued it, to help hold
it together. I had my doubts, but it did reduce the auto shut downs. It
was after that I figured out the wiggle switch method of keeping it
going. I asked jaars Inc, my stateside purchasing and shipping
department to try and find me a new switch. He came back with a
statement that the switch is obsolete. But, no information about what to
do next. They are a P&S department, not my CAT research department.

So, here I am searching for help elsewhere.
Now, send me your questions.

The John Deere diesel generator specifications:
     5 cylinder  3.0L
     Family 7JDXL03.0063
     Engine Model 5030TF270C
     Power 60 kw @ 1800 RPM,  but we use it at 1500 RPM to get 50 hz.

Its connected to a “Broadcrown” system

, BCJD50-60T2-220 with a Deep Sea Electronics Plc 5110 autostart module and a Stamford / Newage

UCI224D-311 AC generator. assyembled in June 2006.

The John Deere problem:
A co-worker went to start it, (manually, as we don’t have an automatic
transfer switch, someday…) It started normally, except perhaps 10
seconds after starting there was a pop. It shut down and all attempts to
restart have not worked. The starter does turn it over normally, but
there is no evidence of it attempting to start.
What Have I done:
Checked that the fuel is flowing freely from the filter.
Checked the filter for water, no evidence of water.
Checked the air system, air filter is OK and passages are OK
Checked electrical connections on outside of motor, all seem good.
Disconnected the battery and reconnected it.
     Section 45: Troubleshooting
     The fuel injector is inside the engine on this unit. So other than
checking the fuel output from the filter, and for water, I have not done
anything else in the fuel system.

This is where I am stuck. My inclination is fuel injector and I can
start engine disassemble in an attempt to get to the injector pump. But,
I wanted to check with a more knowledgeable somebody else and see if
they know of  something I may have obviously missed.

So, here I am searching for help elsewhere.
Now, send me your questions, comments, statements, etc

Thanks for your willingness to help
Jim McCabe

Author: jimjudywycliffejourney

Jim and Judy have been with Wycliffe since 1984. They have served in aviation maintenance/management, motorcycle, and 4X4 training, recruitment, and facilities maintenance in multiple locations in the US and Africa. They currently work with America's Area, North Region, Scripture Access services team. They are a mobile USA team using the internet and face to face encounters with churches, ministries, Native American communities, Diaspora communities, refugee aid organizations, and individuals, introducing them to Through this website, those who did not grow up speaking English can access the Bible and other Scripture resources in the language they understand best. Would you consider becoming a part of their Wycliffe ministry partnership team? You can join their prayer or financial team by clicking on

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